Mozart in the kitchen
What with Mozart and food, was the question. Well, long story, but… 2006 we celebrated the 250th birthday of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, hence Mozarts Menu.
The family Mozart travelled widely through Europe, sometimes the complete family, sometimes Wolfgang and his father Leopold, sometimes Wolfgang and his mother Anna Maria, and later Wolfgang on his own, or with his wife Constanze. They were letterwriters, and the letters were kept Four fat volumes of them. A wonderful source, especially as father Leopold fancied himself a chroniqueur, writing about his experiences abroad to his landlord in Salzburg. A lot about the important people they met, the music, but the foreign habits and oddities were also duly noted. Hence, a lot about food.
In Italy he eats watermelon with cinnamon (wonderful, especially if you mix the cinnamon with a little canesugar), in England even the children drink beer at breakfast, and in France Wolfgang eats sorbetices with the yuppies off the Palais Royal.
Wolfgangs favorites are smoked salmontrout with a sauce of parsley, and choucroute with leberknoedel. Forget about the last, but try the trout. It was a specialty of the Berchtesgaden area and exported widely. When eaten cold, courtcook Conrad Hagger advised, you put it on a napkin on a dish, sprinkled with parsley.
One can also eat the smoked salmontrout warm, removing the skin and pouring hot stock over it, putting it in the oven for a moment and serve it. A simple parsley vinaigrette to go with it is great.